Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
